THE AMALFI COAST – A DAY-TRIP TO TAKE YOUR BREATH AWAY
Italy
by Troy Herrick

Few scenes on earth are as spectacular as the Amalfi Coast which stretches from Sorrento to Salerno. Combine sparkling blue-green water, rugged cliffs, a hair-raising bus ride, a leisurely boat ride and stunning little towns like Positano, Amalfi and Ravello and you have one breathtaking sight after another.

Sorrento is the gateway to the Amalfi Coast. Most visitors arrive here late in the afternoon after touring Naples. Relaxing Sorrento stands in sharp contrast to its chaotic neighbor one hour away. Relieve your stress upon arrival with a panoramic view of the Bay of Naples during the day and a breathtaking sunset over the water in the evening. Both are best enjoyed from public gardens adjoining the Church of San Francesco.

Any remaining stress soon disappears with a visit to the nearby church cloister. Its periphery features an outdoor art gallery. All works are products of the onsite art school. A colorful flower garden at the center completes the scene.

After a relaxing evening stroll and a good night’s rest, make the one hour bus trip to the town of Amalfi. You will experience this white-knuckled ride more if you sit on the right hand side of the bus where the vertical drop outside varies from 500 to 1000 feet, depending upon your location.

Marvel as your bus driver speeds along the winding two-lane road where corners sometimes permit only one vehicle to pass at a time. This route features large homes glued to the cliff sides above and below, medieval watch towers dating to Saracen times and terraced rock faces filled with grape vines and olive trees. Then all-of-a-sudden your thrill ride ends at the Amalfi water front.

Originally founded in the 4th century AD, the city of Amalfi was once one of the four most powerful Maritime Republics on the Italian peninsula along with Pisa, Genoa and Venice. However several sackings by the Pisans and an earthquake in 1343 changed all of that forever.

Now this peaceful seaside town can only hint at its historic past. A colorful ceramic map depicting Amalfi’s old Mediterranean trade routes set on the Porta della Marina and an ancient shipbuilding dock site known as the Arsenal serve to remind visitors of the city’s nautical history. Seafaring also prompted the town to grow lemons as a means to prevent scurvy. Today, this fruit has found a more practical use in the tangy liqueur known as limoncello for which the Amalfi Coast is famous.

Like its former maritime rival Venice, Amalfi also has its own apostolic patron saint – St. Andrew. You can visit the 9th century Cathedral of Saint Andrew adjoining the main piazza by first climbing 62 steps and then successively entering the Cloister of Paradise, the diocesan museum, the crypt and finally the cathedral itself.

The Cloister of Paradise features a courtyard with a palm tree and hedges at the center. Faded frescoes cover the Moorish crossed arches. In these surroundings, your serenity is only broken by an occasional passerby.

The diocesan museum houses the cathedral treasures. Items of note include an enclosed chair for transporting the clergy known as a “portantina” and a silver screen etched with now-tarnished figures labelled as the Paliotto Da’Argento.

Descend into the richly decorated crypt to visit the tomb of St. Andrew which is located beneath the altar. His reliquary is best seen from behind the altar where a silver disk, approximately 12 inches in diameter, outlines the lid. St. Andrew’s remains were brought to Amalfi in the 13th century. Since 1304, these relics have yielded a condensate that is collected in a glass bowl. Locals believe that this liquid has miraculous powers.

The cathedral’s interior is largely 18th century baroque but an Arab-Norman influence is also apparent. A painting depicting the crucifixion of St. Andrew hangs behind the high altar. Tradition holds that an X-shaped cross was utilized rather than the traditional form associated with Christ’s crucifixion. Exit the cathedral at the front via the bronze doors which date back to 1066.

Continue by exploring the maze of narrow alleyways winding through town. Here you find white colored houses set on a gradually increasing slope as you move away from the water. Later, return to the waterfront and ride the bus to nearby Ravello.

The tiny town of Ravello is perched on a cliff, 335 meters above Amalfi. The bus carries you to the edge of the town that was once home to Pope Adrian IV and now a celebrity hideout with the likes of Robert De Niro, Virginia Woolf and Gore Vidal.

The nearby Villa Rufulo, originally constructed in 1200 AD, showcases a scenic terrace and garden overlooking the sea. The scent of colorful flowers entices you inside while the terrace overlooking the seascape brings you a sense of peace and tranquility. Composer Richard Wagner found inspiration here and perhaps you will too for your own endeavours. This garden also houses an ancient gray tower, designed with an Arabic influence. No trip to Ravello is complete without touring this romantic town. Lush tree covered landscapes distinguish this town from its neighbors along the water. Top your stroll off with a visit to the Limoncello Factory for a free sample of this refreshing liqueur. Prices for a bottle of Limoncello appear to be the more reasonable here if you are interested in making a purchase.

Return to Amalfi and ride the ferry to Positano. The ferry provides a different perspective of the Amalfi Coast. Jagged cliffs break the shimmering surface of the water and moving cars high on the mountainside provide the only clue to the presence of a road above. The occasional watch towers remind you that the Amalfi Coast was not always safe for travel.

Positano is the jet-set resort that still retains its original fishing village charm. Here you find high-end fashion boutiques, colorful shops and cafes occupying many of the former homes. Don’t worry about blowing your budget by shopping because the lure of blue-green water and the brown sandy beach may just be enough to keep you from leaving the waterfront.

At some point however, you may wish to ascend the narrow streets and seek out the green majolica domed Church of Santa Maria Assunte. Its white and gold interior features a 13th century icon of the Black Madonna.

Before you leave Positano, enjoy a cool, refreshing drink and pretend that you are a jet-setter as you wait for your boat ride back to Sorrento.

When you approach Sorrento, note how the city sits on top the steep white cliffs; and how close some of the buildings are from tumbling into the sea. When you disembark from the ferry, climb these cliffs back into town or take a local bus to complete your Amalfi Coast daytrip.